Running in Brussels: Let’s just say I’m not a travel writer but here goes…
An invitation I couldn’t pass up. I was on the phone to my Aussie bestie when her 3 year old son started shouting in the background ‘Est tante Sophie venant à ma fête.’ (Is Aunty Sophie coming to my party?) You see, he and his twin sister were having a party to celebrate turning 4. They wanted…no, the needed to know, was I going to be there? So I did as any good Auntie does, I booked my Eurostar tickets to Brussels.
Now, I figure you know you’re a runner when you schedule travel in a way that works around your runs. This I assume is what every sensible runner does if they have the chance! So I had a plan. The job now was to put that plan into action. While I didn’t get quite as many miles in as I wanted (I have hangovers to blame), I did get to do a bit of a tourist as runner, runner as tourist thing. You could say I do that on most of my long runs in London, but I live here so it’s not the same.
Running as a tourist
As a tourist, I quite like getting lost. I know this is not always a good idea. Let’s just say I’ve ended up in some somewhat interesting parts of cities around the world. But, sometimes, just sometimes, you get to see things that aren’t in the guidebooks or even included on tourist maps – random bits of fantastic street art, interesting shops, mindblowing architecture. It’s these places where I’m also more likely to have weird and wonderful conversations.
There’s something fun about heading down side streets you don’t know, coming across centuries old churches and buildings and gardens, street artworks. Sometimes I’ve stood at a cross-roads, no idea which way to go, and make a random choice.
In other words, anything I write on running and travelling won’t include a clear map with those symbols for ‘take a photo here’. Now, if you’re stuck for time or the thought of getting a little lost makes you feel ill, pick up a tourist walking map and stick to those routes – this can be a great way to do it. But for me, I’m a crap tourist. I might have a couple of things I want to see, but if I don’t because I’m spending time sitting in the sun, or chatting to friends, so be it.
Running in Brussels
As a tourist, most of what you’re likely to want to see in Brussels can be managed via a 5 to 10k run.
Now, one big important warning for running in the tourist centre and surrounds. No, this is not about those ‘awful’ others who get in your way – if you’re a tourist yourself, deal with it. I might have a strange sense of humour but I figure runs like this are almost like dancing and great for training for big crowded races.
No, instead, the challenge is frigging cobbles and footpaths made of stone and granite (?). This stuff is brutal on the feet and joints. I found myself almost dancing – trying to keep my footstep as light as possible. You won’t want to be doing a long run on this stuff.
So this is how it went.
Stop 1 – Parc du Bruxelles
A glorious day for a run!
Parc du Bruxelles is dotted with classical statues , trees and fountains. Lots of other runners about. A sunny and warm day, what could be better.
And from here you can see the Palais du Bruxelles.
Stop 2 – St Michael and St Gudula Cathedral
I headed down the road to the main Brussels Cathedral.
It’s thought that a chapel dedicated to St Michael was built here as early as the 9th century. In the 11th century, it was replaced by a Romanesque church in 1047. The relics of St Gudula were transferred there. From then onwards, it became known as “the collegiale church of St Michae! and St Gudula”. You can read more about the history of the Cathedral here.
Lots of tourists hanging about. A mere precursor to what was to come in Grande Place.
Stop 3 – Grande Place
Grand Place – pretty damn impressive and on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. It’s considered one of the most beautiful medieval squares in Europe. It’s at the heart of Brussels, where many historic buildings dating from the 17th century are located.
Apart from having a look, do give some thought to stopping at one of the many cafes and having a pint – though perhaps not mid-run. Fun to run through – just make sure you dodge all those tourists like you and watch those cobbles! There are busloads of tourists, literally. Somehow I managed to take a photo without many in it.
Stop 3 – Manneken Pis
So facing the City Hall in Grand Place, you head to the left along a couple of blocks to find the ‘Pissing Boy’… Yep, I don’t quite get it either but it’s one of the most popular tourist attractions in Brussels.
On the way there, your senses will be assaulted by wafts of waffles! Yum!
No time to stop though – too many streets to explore. And I thought running full of waffles might not be the best idea.
Stop 4 – MIM – Musical Instrument Museum
Up some cobbled roads, up some hills, and a few stairs, and onto MIM.
Since 1992 the Musical Instruments Museum (now known as the ‘mim’) has been part of the Royal Museums of Art and History. It includes an early music section and secondly, the section of modern music (19th and 20th centuries), and popular and traditional music. Historically, it dates from 1877 when it was attached to the Brussels Royal Music Conservatory with the purpose of showing early instruments to the students. To flag there’s a great restaurant on the top where you can stop, get a coffee, some food, a drink and see spectacular views over Brussels.
Stop 5 – Musee Magritte and Palais des buex-arts
Then just across the road from MIM, you have the Musee Magritte. The museum is dedicated to the work of Belgian surrealist artist, Rene Magritte. It’s also one of the constitute museums of the Royal Museums of Fine Arts.
And just next to is the Palais des Beux-Arts.
Both are well worth a visit if you have the chance. Though I had running to do so on I went, up and down some smaller streets to check out the architecture.
There’s so much more to see in Brussels!
Other runs
Now if your in need for some green space, while it’s a bit sparse in the main tourist area, there are a few spots a couple of miles away to explore.
Having been to Brussels quite a few times to visit my friends, I tend to focus more on green space and trails. And there are some good options here.
The first, and worth a visit, is Place Flagey. It’s got a busy weekend markets and there is no shortage of great food and drink. Just across the road is…
And the lakes are surrounded by a dirt path which is lovely on the feet after all those cobbles!
Continue on past the Abbey de la Cambre (also worth a wander around), up to Le Bois de la Cambre. This part covers 124 hectares and this is part of the old Forest of Soignes. On Saturdays and Sundays, some routes are closed to cars, thus leaving the way free for cyclists, joggers, roller-skating enthusiasts, etc. Families visiting at weekends can take the ferry to reach the island and have something to eat there.
There are events on all the time here so keep a look out. I managed to run past a beach volleyball competition.
And if you’ve got some serious miles to do, this park backs onto a large area of woods – well worth an explore.
Three runs done and a fabulous kids party! I was a little exhausted by the time I got home!
Happy running! And if you liked this post and want to read more, please subscribe.
What a great guide! You should get people to do some guest posts about running in their cities (maybe)! I love the photo in Stop 5, very clever. I’ve been to Brussels but before I was a runner – the warning about the cobbles is very useful!
Thanks Liz and great idea (or perhaps I should just travel more!). Happy running!